Mark Palmer of The Daily Telegraph visits Bowler bar and grill in London’s Chelsea. “Tiger prawn baby gem parcels” turn out to be a “meaningless variation on the prawn cocktail theme” and the sirloin is “nothing special”, although the pork belly is “wonderfully tender”. The vegetables are “limp” and “dreary”. However, a wonderful dessert of “Eton Mess” is “the biggest vote-winner of the night”. Palmer awards the meal 6 out of 10.
Tim Hames of The Times visits One-O-One in the Sheraton Park Towers Hotel London’s Knightsbridge. It has recently reopened after a three month closure for refurbishment. He says it is “hard to describe the horror of this building without frightening the children” and doubts it is possible to “refurbish your way out of this nightmare”. However, the seafood-heavy menu offers “a degree of imagination and taste not easily matched anywhere”, with special praise reserved for the langoustine with foie gras and the “incomparable salt caramel ice cream”.
Tracy MacLeod of The Independent visits Alimentum in Cambridge. Located in a new-build development, it suffers from parking problems, has no view and is far from the centre of town. The interior is well-designed and the menu is “seasonal, unpretentious, ethically sourced.” MacLeod finds the chicken ravioli “sensationally good”, the pork belly “tender” and the peach melba desert “delicately composed”. However, the service is “muddled” although the restaurant is only a quarter full.
Matthew Norman of The Guardian visits Wild Honey in London’s George Street. The cooking is “outstanding” and although the organic salmon is lacking in taste the smoked eel with beetroot and horseradish cream is a “perfectly balanced medley of gentle flavours”. The main courses are “pleasingly gutsy” with the roasted veal chop “a classic”. He awards the meal 9 out of 10 and predicts that a Michelein star “won’t be long coming”.
The Daily Telegraph 15/9/07 page W16 (Weekend)
The Times 15/9/07 page 69 (Magazine)
The Independent 15/9/07 page 55 (Magazine)
The Guardian 15/9/07 page 87 (Weekend)
