Nicholas Lander of the Financial Times writes about Angelus, a new French restaurant recently opened by Thierry Tomasin on the site of the old Archery tavern in London’s Bayswater. His chef Olivier Duret has created a “fresh, clean and uncluttered” menu and Lander particularly enjoys his “sumptuous” Cornish crab in aspic with fennel cream.
Mark Palmer of The Daily Telegraph visits Marco, Marco Pierre White’s upmarket restaurant at London’s Stamford Bridge football ground. He calls the restaurant “a sexy room with a slinky bar at the back” and enjoys the “pretty parfait” foie gras in truffle jelly and the red mullet soup with “croutons the size of Holy Communion wafers”. The desserts are “executed with skill and flair” but the overall effect of the menu is a little too rich and buttery. He awards the meal 7 out of 10.
Giles Coren of The Times eats at Bincho Yakitori in London’s Oxo Tower. It does “pretty good yakitori” although he finds the service intrusive. He enjoys the “very good” pig’s tripe and miso stew and the “golden and sweet and luscious” eel. He awards 5.75 out of 10.
Tracey MacLeod of The Independent visits Texture in London’s Portman Square. She finds the food “lighter, brighter and healthier than most haute cuisine” and especially enjoys the lemongrass and ginger soup with fresh fruit. The service is “faultless” although the prices are high.
Matthew Norman of The Guardian visits Rafters, a “curious place” in Sheffield. Although the starters “weren’t great”, the Angus beef is “a lovely fat fillet of excellent meat” served with “luscious” wild mushrooms and “delectable” shiraz reduction. The gilled sea bass is presented unattractively but has great flavour and the puddings are “incredibly good”. He awards the restaurant 7.25 out of 10.
Financial Times 6/10/07 page 4 (Life & Arts)
The Daily Telegraph 6/10/07 page W20 (Weekend)
The Times 6/10/07 page 70 (Magazine)
The Independent 6/10/07 page 65 (Magazine)
The Guardian 6/10/07 page 122 (Weekend)
